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Today I'm taking the world's most luxurious sleeper train over the next 72 hours. What's more I'm in the best room, or should I say I have the entire carriage as my suite! This is by far the most incredible sleeper train experience of my life, the Twilight Express Mizukaze. Though this is a trip you can't just book, and have to enter a lottery to reserve a ticket onboard.
I'll be documenting every minute of my journey from what the dining is like in the restaurant car curated by a 3 Michelin star chef, the observation lounges (there are two!) and finding out what my private balcony is like in my suite. This also happens to be up there as my most expensive individual travel experience too... at over $40,000! As usual I've broken down the cost and how I booked this in the video.
0:00 - Intro
04:18 - The Suite
08:25 - Observation Car
13:01 - Dining Car
23:22 - Lounge Car
26:46 - Royal Twin
29:03 - Cost
Today I'm taking the world's most luxurious sleeper train over the next 72 hours. What's more I'm in the best room, or should I say I have the entire carriage as my suite! This is by far the most incredible sleeper train experience of my life, the Twilight Express Mizukaze. Though this is a trip you can't just book, and have to enter a lottery to reserve a ticket onboard.
I'll be documenting every minute of my journey from what the dining is like in the restaurant car curated by a 3 Michelin star chef, the observation lounges (there are two!) and finding out what my private balcony is like in my suite. This also happens to be up there as my most expensive individual travel experience too... at over $40,000! As usual I've broken down the cost and how I booked this in the video.
0:00 - Intro
04:18 - The Suite
08:25 - Observation Car
13:01 - Dining Car
23:22 - Lounge Car
26:46 - Royal Twin
29:03 - Cost
Category
😹
FunTranscript
00:00Today I'm going first class on the world's most luxurious sleeper train,
00:04with tickets so exclusive you have to enter a lottery just to purchase.
00:08I'm staying in the best suite on board which takes up an entire rail car,
00:12with a living room, marble bathroom and even a private balcony.
00:16I'll give you a never before seen insight into what it's like to live on board,
00:20from the Michelin star dining in the restaurant,
00:22enchanting entertainment and breathtaking observation cars.
00:26With that let's pick up our journey in Japan at 9am.
00:38Well hello there and welcome back to the channel,
00:40where we're about to get on board another rather epic sleeper train.
00:43And right on cue, look who's joining me for this adventure.
00:47Morning.
00:47How you doing dad?
00:48Yeah good thank you.
00:49It's at this point we're notified a representative from the Twilight Express
00:52has come to greet us at our hotel and promptly ushers us into a waiting minivan.
00:59Whilst the weather might not be on our side at present, it does little to dampen our excitement.
01:06Around 10 minutes later we arrive at Kyoto station.
01:13Here we're met by more employees from the train,
01:15who assist us with our luggage and guide us over to the elevator.
01:18We're invited to check in at the dedicated Mizukaze lounge.
01:23In truth this is largely a formality and we're taken straight through to the departure lounge.
01:34Due to the nature of our booking, we're offered the best seats in the house
01:38and presented with a welcome drink menu.
01:41We're served some cookies along with our chosen green tea.
01:49Next we're presented with our room key and golden badges, which will act as our boarding pass.
01:58We're then introduced to the train manager and his team who'll be looking after us over the coming days.
02:04With that we're invited to head down to the platform at our leisure.
02:10The anticipation is truly building. This is one of the hardest trains to book onto in the world.
02:17Mind you, despite the busy station, signs that our train is departing soon are not exactly subtle.
02:25We're instructed to wait for the next train to arrive.
02:27Signs that our train is departing soon are not exactly subtle.
02:32We're instructed to linger by platform zero, where we must first wait for the Thunderbird
02:37Limited Express to pass through. Perhaps it's just our trains are so dated in the UK,
02:42but everything in Japan looks so futuristic to me.
02:45With the coast clear, our luxurious new home worth a speculated 3 billion yen comes into view.
02:58Due to its rarity, naturally this causes quite the commotion among commuters.
03:06Welcome on board the Twilight Express, a train consisting of 10 lavishly appointed rail cars,
03:12with space for just 30 passengers. We'll be heading firstly to our accommodation in car number seven.
03:18Oh and did I mention the entire carriage is our suite. It's at this point we abruptly depart
03:24Kyoto Station amongst a flurry of waving flags and well-wishers.
03:32The first leg of our route will take us some 150 miles over to Okayama.
03:41Back in rail car seven, it's time to explore our new digs.
03:55So welcome aboard the Twilight Express. Yes, welcome. This is, well I think it's fair to say
04:00we've both been left pretty speechless so far. Absolutely. Yeah, to put it simply we've got the
04:05entire railway carriage to ourselves. This is just our living room. Shall we take a proper look around?
04:13Yes. The suite is among the very largest accommodation offered on any train in the world.
04:19We'll start off in the living room, complete with comfy chairs and a bed.
04:22We'll start off in the living room, complete with comfy sofa, a coffee table filled with information about our trip,
04:28a dining table with space for four, along with a welcome bottle of champagne
04:34and of course a complimentary minibar.
04:38Thoughtfully there are international adapters and Wi-Fi for our use on board. Let's move on to the bedroom.
04:45You'll find twin beds adorned in high thread count Egyptian cotton sheets. This frankly feels closer
04:51to a hotel room than a rail car, but it gets better through this sliding door
04:56in the most beautiful bathroom of any train I've ever seen.
05:09The highlight being the stunning clawfoot bathtub, though I'm gonna have to pick my time wisely
05:13as those windows do not have privacy glass. We'll continue to see more of our suite in a second.
05:22But we've been notified by a room attendant lunch is being served.
05:27Most meals will be served in the elegant dining car with an open kitchen,
05:31but as an exception today's lunch will be taken in our living quarters.
05:40Drinks wise I've got a ginger beer. I did ask about a Diet Coke
05:43and they said they're going to pick some up at our next stop. Now that's service.
05:47As you'll see our lunch is immaculately presented, but what exactly do we have? Firstly an appetizer
05:53of sea urchin, tiger prawns and beef, followed by some boiled conger eel, a rice dish and some sashimi.
06:08Next up a soup dish with shrimp, shiitake and bamboo.
06:13For dessert we're served green tea ice cream, strawberries and red kidney beans.
06:19A seemingly odd combination, but I can confirm it does actually work very well.
06:25With lunch out of the way let's explore the rest of our suite.
06:29Back down the marble clad staircase brings us to the secondary bathroom
06:33behind this sliding door. Featuring another Toto toilet,
06:37sink and luxurious Bulgari amenities. Perhaps the most unique feature is the balcony,
06:42which offers a fabulous way to get more immersed in your journey.
06:52Right I think it's time we take a proper look around the rest of our train,
06:55starting with that incredible observation car. But first, now there is Wi-Fi on board,
07:02but it's not been needed, as I've been able to stay connected throughout my trip in Japan,
07:06thanks to Aerolo, a convenient e-sim technology provider. Aerolo makes travel seamless,
07:11because I no longer have to get a physical sim when I land in a new country,
07:14or buy an expensive global plan. Instead I simply buy one of their affordable e-sims
07:19before my trip, and once I land I have access to data roaming without having to do anything.
07:25Aerolo is so useful when I travel to multiple countries, like this week, where I've been in
07:30Japan, Australia and Hong Kong, because they offer e-sims in over 200 countries and territories.
07:35They have e-sims which cover entire regions, like Europe, the Middle East and Asia.
07:40Stay connected during your next trip, cheaper and hassle free, by downloading Aerolo now,
07:45via the link in my description, or by visiting the link in the description below.
07:49Stay connected during your next trip, cheaper and hassle free, by downloading Aerolo now,
07:52via the link in my description, or by using the QR code right here.
07:56Plus use code TREKTRENDY3 for $3 off your first purchase. Aerolo has made my life so
08:02much easier and cheaper, and I can't wait for you to try it too.
08:06Now to explore. As with all the rooms on board, these are lockable with your provided key.
08:11Worry not, we will investigate the other accommodation in just a moment, but priorities.
08:16Cars 1 and 10 are dual purpose. They're locomotives, as well as observation cars.
08:22Featuring comfy seating with panoramic views, and even an outside viewing platform,
08:26directly below the driver.
08:29Entering car 10, we first pass through the corridor, adorned with both local jewellery
08:33and literature, and make it to a small booth. This is manned intermittently,
08:37but staff are an iPad tap away.
08:46It's certainly one of the more spectacular spaces, with any train I've been on board.
08:54The other unique feature is that you can look directly into the driver's cab.
09:01And yes, that's the outside observation deck, which we'll come back to later.
09:06For now, let's kick back and enjoy the Japanese countryside,
09:09rolling past these huge panoramic windows.
09:16So we get to stop at a few places along route to get off and have a look at leisure.
09:27The train will wait for us and then we'll continue onwards.
09:30So we should be at Okayama in the next 15 or 20 minutes.
09:33I will probably need to change to something a little warmer.
09:36It's heartwarming to see such a cute reception from the local school children,
09:40all delighted to welcome us to their city.
09:45We have a couple of hours off the train to explore, and we'll return in due course
09:49to get back on board for tonight's festivities.
09:52For the time being, we're led up and out of the station,
09:55to the special Twilight Express branded bus.
09:58It's not long before we're waved off by our welcome committee and on the road.
10:05The drive is brief for only around 15 minutes,
10:08over to one of the three great gardens of the city,
10:10and then back to the main station.
10:13There's a lot to see and enjoy,
10:15but we've got a few things to do before we head back to the station.
10:19So let's get on with the journey.
10:28Okayama Corican Garden,
10:30and was originally a place of entertainment for the ruling family.
10:34Today it's open to the public,
10:35offering outstanding views out over Okayama Castle,
10:39and a welcome stretch of the legs for the 30 Twilight Express passengers.
10:43Whilst there is already some plum blossom,
10:45we're unfortunately too early in the season to witness the famed cherry blossom.
10:50Next we're invited for a very special tour of the Kakumikan Hall,
10:54built back in the 1800s and not usually open to the public.
11:02To finish off we're served some local tea by the staff.
11:05I think it's fair to assume I'm going to drink a lot of tea over the next few days.
11:12It's time to head back to our train.
11:14Dinner is just around the corner and there are quite a few surprises in store for us.
11:24We're warmly welcomed back to the train,
11:30and like clockwork our wonderful room attendant escorts us over to our suite.
11:43The next leg of our journey will take us some 150 miles northwest,
11:47arriving bright and early tomorrow morning into Shinji.
11:50Well, welcome back to our room.
11:53Yeah, oh gosh, it's a bit bumpy.
11:56I may have ordered a little surprise for us,
11:58and before I fall over again, let's get changed into something a little smarter.
12:11Of course, what would a Trek Trendy trip be without a drop of Dom Perignon?
12:16Due to the nature of our suite, everything on the one hand is a bit messy,
12:19everything on the wine list is fully inclusive.
12:35As we peruse the in-flight, I mean in-rail entertainment,
12:39our private two-person orchestra arrives.
12:42I really do have to pinch myself sometimes.
12:50Bravo, that was phenomenal.
12:59Now for dinner, served in the glamorous dining car number six.
13:03It's unique given it's got an open kitchen, something you never see on board trains.
13:10I can only imagine the challenge cooking on board.
13:14So this evening's menu is curated by a local chef,
13:16who runs a three-Michelin-style restaurant in Osaka.
13:21The focus with tonight's menu are mountains, rivers, sea and land.
13:28To kick things off, we continue our champagne narrative
13:31with some Telemor Organic Champagne.
13:33After a few sips of our wine, our server announces we'll be trying Fugu next.
13:38This, to those not aware, is pufferfish and contains a fatal poison,
13:42which requires meticulous preparation by a licensed chef.
13:45Or, well, no more Trek Trendy.
13:49With trepidation, I approach a dish which, perhaps ironically, is called Life.
13:54I'm not sure if it's the right word for it, but it's a dish that's been around for a long time.
13:58With trepidation, I approach a dish which, perhaps ironically, is called Life.
14:04I mean it's delicious and so far I'm okay.
14:07As Daddy served an Austrian Sauvignon Blanc, our next course is presented, named The Sea,
14:12and consisting of delicate tilefish, along with a garnish of seasonal vegetables.
14:18Our next course is entitled Planet Earth,
14:21to which I've been able to interpret as Shrimp Tortellini.
14:24The wine pairing continues with a Japanese Sake,
14:27along with our next piece of edible artwork.
14:36Moving on, a 2019 Pinot Noir is paired to perhaps the most incredible piece
14:41of Hiroshima Wagyu Steak I've ever sampled.
14:46For dessert, we have All Things Are Not Permanent,
14:50For dessert, we have All Things Are Not Permanent,
14:52basically fruits and cream encased in a light pastry shell,
14:55with a passion fruit sauce drizzled over the top.
14:58Certainly a sweet one.
15:09Well, welcome back to our room.
15:10Dad, how's your evening been?
15:12Yeah, fabulous. Absolutely fabulous.
15:14It's been really special, hasn't it?
15:16I mean, I can't quite believe that we had pufferfish.
15:18So, should we call that a night?
15:19We need to.
15:20Indeed.
15:26Let's head back to that beautiful bathroom and get changed.
15:39Well, with that, it's goodnight from me.
15:41I can't wait to explore more of our train in the morning.
15:49I slept really well, actually, but where's Dad?
15:52Let's investigate.
15:56Oh, good morning.
15:57Good morning.
15:58Of course, breakfast has been served already in our suite, and it's quite the feast.
16:09From a delicious pork steak to an egg,
16:12a fruit selection, and of course, a drink.
16:15To an egg, a fruit selection, and freshly baked pastries.
16:20This will do nicely.
16:25Oh, and not forgetting that much-needed caffeine hit.
16:33We're not that far out of Shinji,
16:35but there's just enough time to give that shower a try.
16:46As we roll into Shinji, it appears again we have quite the welcome committee.
16:51What a wholesome start to the day.
17:02And as if by magic, our luxury coach is waiting for us, ready to take us out on excursion.
17:08It also provides an opportunity to marvel at our train.
17:11Worry not, we'll be back on board in a few hours.
17:16So,
17:27our first trip this morning will take us into the mountains,
17:29specifically to learn about ancient Japanese iron manufacture.
17:34So this village, Sanai, is home to the last remaining traditional iron making furnace in Japan.
17:45We're talked through the whole process, from smelting iron sand into a clay furnace,
17:53to production of Japanese knives and swords.
17:57In contrast, we emerge to a snowy world outside.
18:00Let's get back on the bus and head to our next stop.
18:06Around 40 minutes later, we arrive at Shukunomori for an organic home-cooked meal
18:11in a traditional Japanese thatched roof restaurant.
18:16Basically, everything we're eating here has been farmed or fished in the local area.
18:29From simmered vegetables, tempura and grilled mackerel, it's quite the feast.
18:36We absolutely cannot conclude this meal without a tea flight.
18:46As we depart, the previous snow has unfortunately turned to rain,
18:50but not to worry, our final activity is also inside.
18:57Another 40-minute drive takes us to Kaguru no Yado for a kagura performance.
19:03This translates roughly to sacred music and dancing.
19:15It's time to re-board our wonderful train at Matsui Station.
19:26Despite only being on board 24 hours,
19:28thanks to the incredible hospitality, it already feels like coming home.
19:37Oh, and as promised, an ice-cold DC is awaiting both of us on return to our suite.
19:42Well, Dad, it's about that time of the day where we need to start thinking about dinner.
19:46Mmm, also champagne o'clock.
19:52So where are we heading next?
19:54Well, overnight we'll journey over the coastal tracks,
19:57over to Higashihama, arriving tomorrow morning for breakfast.
20:03Appropriately changed for dinner, let's walk under our suite and over to Observation Car 10.
20:09Worry not, we'll check out the other observation car,
20:11which is quite different, along with the outside deck tomorrow.
20:21The real convenience of these cars is that one can order room service directly here,
20:26and in our case, champagne service.
20:29As we toast to a continued exceptional journey,
20:31I find myself asking, what is the story behind this marvellous train?
20:36Well, to understand we must first wind back the clock all the way to July 1989,
20:41where this train's predecessor was put into service.
20:43The original Twilight Express ran the 1,000 miles between Osaka and Sapporo
20:48as a sleeper train, taking 23 hours.
20:51Though thanks to the extension and efficiency of the Shinkansen lines throughout the country,
20:55overnight journeys can now be made in a matter of hours.
20:58This leaves all but one public sleeper train still in active service.
21:03However, for nostalgic and tourism reasons,
21:05three cruise trains were created by Japanese railways.
21:08The Seven Stars, which I took last year,
21:11the Shikibu Shinkansen,
21:13and the Shinkansen, which I took last year.
21:15The Shikibu Shinkansen was built by the Shikibu Shinkansen,
21:18which I took last year.
21:20The Shikishima, which I'm booked onto later this year,
21:23and the Twilight Express, introduced back in 2017.
21:27Though, as you know, to book on any of these,
21:29you need to enter a lottery due to their immense popularity.
21:33Anyway, we've just been called for dinner, shall we?
21:44As much fun as it was playing detective on yesterday's dinner menu,
21:47it's nice to be able to read what we have to expect this evening.
21:50We'll kick things off with another glass of Krug,
21:52and it's not all too long before our appetizer is ready.
21:56Certainly quite the eclectic mix, but most tasty.
22:02Now, there is one champagne on the sweet list which we've not sampled,
22:05and given how the bottle is decorated in Japanese white flowers,
22:08I think most appropriate.
22:12This accompanies our next course well,
22:14being a sashimi selection, including squid, tuna, scallops and octopus.
22:20Something I didn't realize is that our table is hiding an induction stovetop,
22:24and that's because we're about to enjoy
22:26the world's only hotpot experience on board a moving train.
22:31As it's heating up, I'm served some wagyu beef,
22:35and dad some butterfish on a bed of potato puree.
22:40Now for the main event.
22:42We're presented with Japanese spiny lobster, sea bream,
22:45and a selection of freshly prepared vegetables,
22:48all of which goes in the hotpot to simmer away beautifully,
22:54resulting in a most delectable fusion of flavor.
23:05Our dinner concludes with strawberries and milk ice cream,
23:08perhaps the most pedestrian element of our culinary adventure this evening.
23:16Post dinner, we're encouraged to proceed for drinks and live music
23:19in the atmospheric bar and lounge car.
23:22Doubling as a tea room by day, of which we'll be sampling tomorrow,
23:25tonight's festivities are in full swing.
23:28We're invited to take a seat by the bar and peruse the menu.
23:31There's a lot to choose from, but given we've just had dinner,
23:34I think a whiskey would be most appropriate to share with dad.
23:38Introducing Hibiki's 100th anniversary blend,
23:42a bottle of which would set you back a cool $3,500.
24:01So
24:23we have a short excursion this morning for breakfast,
24:26with a choice of either taking the coach or walking.
24:30We've chosen the latter,
24:31mainly because we're able to get outstanding views of our train departing.
24:35Worry not, we'll be back on board shortly.
24:46Breakfast is served in a beachside Italian restaurant,
24:49offering spectacular views of the shoreline.
24:52Next, we're led over to our table in pride of place by the window.
25:08After a warm welcome from the owner,
25:10we're presented with warm ciabatta bread and a coffee.
25:17I enjoy the dry cured ham with mozzarella,
25:19along with a locally caught fresh tatori fish.
25:26Culminating with a freshly made lychee panna cotta and a performance by local residents.
25:34With that, we're invited to head to the lobby to collect our sand boots
25:38and get on board the Twilight Express coach.
25:42The use for said sand boots will become evident shortly.
25:49Welcome to the cold but beautiful Tatori sand dunes.
25:57They represent Japan's largest sand dune formation
26:00and exist as a result of thousands of years of sand from the nearby river,
26:04washed out to sea and redeposited by the ocean's currents.
26:10The dunes are a constantly changing landscape,
26:13shaped by the ferocious coastal winds of which we're experiencing now.
26:20Now to link back to our train,
26:23currently stabled at Tatori station in our absence.
26:36Back on the move again,
26:37it's time to take a look around the other accommodation offered on board.
26:42As mentioned, our suite is the only one of its kind,
26:44so all other passengers will stay in the Royal Twin Rooms.
26:48There are three of these in each rail car
26:50and still offer a most comfortable way to travel through Japan.
26:55There's a small open closet space and ensuite bathroom complete with shower.
27:00By night the armchairs convert to comfy twin beds.
27:07We still have a carriage we're yet to explore, the second observation car.
27:12Whilst similar in layout, the design is quite different
27:15and I think I prefer this colour scheme.
27:18Oh, and we're still yet to go outside on the observation deck.
27:22Let's change that.
27:43Following on from this excitement,
27:45we still need to experience what it's like to take a bath on a moving train.
27:49Certainly a rarity, but what a place to try it.
27:58It's a very cool experience,
28:00but you really have to pick your bath time correctly
28:03and not when you're gliding through a busy commuter station.
28:10Feeling most refreshed, we've been invited to a special tea ceremony.
28:15Over in the lounge car.
28:21In contrast to last night's hibiki drinking orchestral extravaganza,
28:24the space has been reserved privately for us.
28:33Let's take a seat as our matcha tea is prepared.
28:41Whilst preparation commences, we're served with gashi,
28:43which are traditional Japanese sweets specially made to pair with our tea.
28:59I think it's time we talked cost.
29:01Given that this trip ordinarily is only possible after successfully winning a lottery,
29:05how did I do it?
29:07As a one-off, the Twilight Express ran an English and French speaking departure
29:11and by chance I managed to secure a booking on this trip with no application process needed.
29:17Do note though this is for the Royal Twin.
29:19Then after inquiring about booking the suite,
29:22to my surprise it was still available, but at quite the price hike.
29:26This brings the total cost to a mind-blowing $43,200.
29:31To my knowledge, booking this way is the only option in order to guarantee a trip
29:35or else you'll have to enter the lottery for a ticket.
29:42Welcome to Kyoto!
29:55Welcome!
29:56We have had the most amazing time on board this incredible train.
30:00Thank you so much for watching and we'll catch you all again next time.