Join master watchmaker, Wilson Masache of Grand Central Watch, as he takes a fire-damaged Rolex Explorer II and brings it back to life. This vintage Rolex’s 3185 movement had completely seized as a result of an apartment fire, but here Masache goes through each of the meticulous steps required to fully restore this Rolex watch.
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Director: Cole Evelev
Director of Photography: Brad Wickham
Editor: Phil Ceconi
Senior Producer: Lizzy Halberstadt
Production Manager: James Pipitone
Production Coordinator: Elizabeth Hymes
Camera Operator: Mar Alfonso, Duell Davis
Gaffer: David Djaco
Audio Engineer: Rachel Suffian
Production Assistant: Patrick Jenkins, Kalia Simms, Ashley Vidal
Post Production Supervisor: Jarrod Bruner
Post Production Coordinator: Ian Bryant
Supervising Editor: Rob Lombardi
Assistant Editor: Andy Morell
Special Thanks: Steve Kivel, Wilson Masache
Filmed on Location at: Grand Central Watch
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Director: Cole Evelev
Director of Photography: Brad Wickham
Editor: Phil Ceconi
Senior Producer: Lizzy Halberstadt
Production Manager: James Pipitone
Production Coordinator: Elizabeth Hymes
Camera Operator: Mar Alfonso, Duell Davis
Gaffer: David Djaco
Audio Engineer: Rachel Suffian
Production Assistant: Patrick Jenkins, Kalia Simms, Ashley Vidal
Post Production Supervisor: Jarrod Bruner
Post Production Coordinator: Ian Bryant
Supervising Editor: Rob Lombardi
Assistant Editor: Andy Morell
Special Thanks: Steve Kivel, Wilson Masache
Filmed on Location at: Grand Central Watch
Category
🛠️
LifestyleTranscript
00:01In the heart of Manhattan, nestled within the historic Grand Central Station,
00:06lies a workshop where time is brought back from the brink.
00:10Grand Central Watch, renowned for its precision and mastery,
00:14houses one of the world's most skilled artisans, Wilson Masace,
00:19a watchmaker with 38 years of experience.
00:24Here, watches once thought irreparable are given new life.
00:30Today, Wilson faces a formidable challenge, a Rolex Explorer II.
00:36Scarred by an apartment fire, its hands are frozen, its movements seized,
00:41and its bracelet caked with soot.
00:44There is simply no way the watch could have been functioning in such a state.
00:49Against the odds, Wilson begins the painstaking process of bringing this watch back to life.
00:56Rolex crafts unique keys for each of its models,
01:02ensuring that only the correct implement can gently persuade the case to open.
01:07The fire has melted part of the case back slightly,
01:10introducing friction and making the removal more challenging.
01:14He retrieves a specialized tool, a case opener designed precisely for this brand.
01:20With the utmost care and steady hands, Wilson overcomes this resistance and frees the case back.
01:28Wilson's surprise is palpable.
01:30The movement inside is not as severely damaged as one might have feared.
01:35The protective backing shielded some of the internal workings.
01:39Still, the rotor is almost immobile and some of the tiny jewels, critical to reducing friction,
01:45have melted together with old grease and dirt.
01:48The dial was badly damaged, the hands fused,
01:52and he assumes that the cannon pinion, the hour wheel and other key components are compromised beyond repair.
02:00Nonetheless, he decides to try removing the stem and crown first to free the movement from the watch case.
02:10These components must come out in a particular sequence.
02:15With the crown successfully removed, he proceeds to detach the movement from the case by moving the casing clamps.
02:23Soon, the movement rests safely on his bench and the case is set aside.
02:29The real challenge begins now.
02:34He attempts to reinsert the stem and crown to test for movement.
02:39They remain impossible to turn.
02:42It is rusted, thoroughly stuck, making even the slightest adjustment futile.
02:48Undeterred, Wilson moves forward with the next step, removing the hands.
02:53To avoid inflicting further damage on the already compromised dial,
02:57he uses a protective plastic sheet and a specialised tool known as a Presto.
03:04This Presto tool is special indeed.
03:06Wilson acquired it in Switzerland some 25 years ago.
03:10Its polished ends ensure there will be no scratches on the dial or hands.
03:15Today, these hands and dial are already in a dire state.
03:19He must proceed with utmost care.
03:22Now he is about to take the dial out, eager yet anxious to discover what lies beneath.
03:28As it lifts away, the full horror is revealed.
03:32Everything is toast.
03:35The calendar components, the calendar plate, the hour wheel, the cannon pinion, the screws and the entire mechanism beneath the dial are all severely rusted.
03:45In this condition, a complete restoration will demand at least 10 hours of focused work.
03:54He sets the dial and hands aside.
03:57They will both be replaced with fresh ones sourced directly from Rolex.
04:01Next, Wilson turns his attention to preparing the case for cleaning and refinishing.
04:12There are tools designed specifically for this, made by Prox, shaped like blades and highly polished,
04:19allowing him to separate the metal case and the bezel without introducing new damage.
04:25Rolex has designed their watches and tools so precisely that even delicate procedures such as bezel removal can be accomplished without injury to the watch's surface.
04:36He takes the tray holding the disassembled case to be refinished, with the intention of restoring it to a mint condition.
04:45The refinishing process will be seen later.
04:48But for now, he must shift his focus back to the movement.
04:52He begins to consider his strategy for disassembling the rusted components.
04:57Every screw is seized by corrosion, every part locked in place.
05:01He must decide where to start and whether to use solutions to free the screws.
05:07The situation is difficult, but he presses on.
05:11He manages to remove the calendar plate after much careful effort.
05:16Now, with the plate off, he can begin to dismantle the wheels and gears beneath it.
05:21This particular Rolex Explorer II is equipped with a caliber 3185 movement,
05:27comprised of approximately 200 components.
05:31He notes that rust has invaded the plate, the jumpers, the screws and the hour and minute components,
05:38as well as the cannon pinion.
05:40Nearly the entire mechanism on the dial side is affected.
05:49To free the cannon pinion, he applies a small amount of solution,
05:53hoping it will help release this critical part from its rusty prison.
05:58He plans to remove the jumper and the screws to free the cannon disc,
06:03but the rust complicates matters.
06:06There is corrosion between the steel plate and the disc,
06:11so each step must be done deliberately and gently.
06:14First introduced in 1971, the Explorer II was designed to help adventurers distinguish between day and night
06:25in extreme conditions, such as deep caves or the polar regions.
06:30Its standout feature, a 24-hour display, ensures the wearer can tell time even in the absence of natural light.
06:37After careful manoeuvring, he succeeds in removing the calendar disc and the stainless steel plate.
06:45These parts now require a bath to remove rust.
06:49Once they are cleaned, he can flip them over and continue his work from the opposite side of the movement.
06:55He places the plate into a solvent and brushes it lightly to loosen the rust.
06:59He will use a variety of brushes, some made of fibre, others of brass.
07:08And even a special pencil to remove the dirt without harming the original shape of the metal.
07:29If the plate cannot be saved, he will send it back to Rolex to be exchanged for a new part.
07:54Before he commits everything to the cleaning process, he must still address the rotor.
07:59Which he finds to be irreparably damaged.
08:03He decides to replace it with a new one.
08:06He wants every adjustment and part replacement done before cleaning,
08:11so that when the pieces return from the ultrasonic bath, they will be ready for final assembly.
08:21He removes two screws to free the automatic device.
08:24Beneath it, he will find the reversal wheels and the pinion of the axle.
08:30Their condition will guide him in what must be replaced.
08:33The calibre is robust, allowing for relatively easier lubrication and a straightforward comprehension of its mechanical interplay.
08:34The calibre is robust, allowing for relatively easier lubrication and a straightforward comprehension of its mechanical interplay.
08:35The calibre is robust, allowing for relatively easier lubrication and a straightforward comprehension of its mechanical interplay.
08:36The calibre is robust, allowing for relatively easier lubrication and a straightforward comprehension of its mechanical interplay.
08:37Rolex's good design stands out here.
08:38The calibre is robust, allowing for relatively easier lubrication and a straightforward comprehension of its mechanical interplay.
08:47The calibre is robust, allowing for relatively easier lubrication and a straightforward comprehension of its mechanical interplay.
08:50The calibre is robust, allowing for relatively easier lubrication and a straightforward comprehension of its mechanical interplay.
09:03Rolex's good design stands out here.
09:06Wilson carefully removes parts beneath the automatic device, including the crown wheel connected to the sliding pinion.
09:19Every turn of the crown engages this mechanism, winding the watch and building power in the mainspring.
09:26He uses a Rolex movement holder, another specialised tool designed to grip the plate without slipping.
09:37The stability provided by this tool is crucial for tightening screws and aligning components precisely.
09:56The barrel holds the mainspring, a coiled strip of metal that stores and releases energy to drive the watch.
10:08Its condition is paramount.
10:11He proceeds to remove the barrel bridge.
10:15Secured by two screws, it covers the barrel, the drum containing the mainspring, the primary power source of the watch.
10:24Once the barrel bridge is lifted, the mainspring can be inspected.
10:29For optimal timekeeping, a fresh mainspring is advisable, so he will likely replace it to ensure the watch's longevity and accuracy.
10:47He notes that the mainspring's shape appears correct, but strength and surface quality must be verified.
11:04Mainsprings lose vigour after years of winding and unwinding.
11:10The movement features multiple bridges.
11:24The rotor bridge, the automatic bridge, the barrel bridge and soon he will address the train wheel bridge.
11:32Each bridge is fitted with jewels and supports the gears crucial for transmitting power.
11:46The train wheel bridge, for instance, holds the sweep second wheel, the second wheel, the fourth wheel and the escape wheel.
11:55He gently removes these wheels.
11:58They are delicate with extremely thin pivots that can bend or snap easily.
12:03He lifts them straight and with utmost care.
12:06Should any pivot bend, the wheel must be replaced since they are hardened parts and cannot simply be bent back.
12:15The train wheel's removed, he turns his attention to the train wheel.
12:43He turns his attention to the centre wheel, which is secured by two screws and a small bridge.
12:51The escape wheel, the heart of the regulating system, along with the pallet and balance wheel, must also be extracted.
12:59This is the component that interacts with the pallet forks to produce the ticking sound, the steady heartbeat of the watch.
13:13Next, he removes the centre posts and continues dismantling the dial side.
13:43The setting mechanism, consisting of the crown, stem, sliding pinion, winding pinion, setting wheels and minute wheel, must be taken apart.
14:01In this particular watch, even these wheels are rusted, so they too will require replacement or careful restoration.
14:16With the setting mechanism exposed, he notes the residue of rust.
14:21All these parts must be cleaned, polished or replaced.
14:25The main plate, the foundation of the movement, is now accessible from both sides.
14:31This plate holds everything together.
14:33On one side, the calendar and associated components.
14:37On the other, the core train, mainspring and winding mechanisms.
14:46He now removes the balance bridge, along with the balance wheel assembly.
14:52The balance wheel carries the hairspring.
14:55This particular watch features a Breguet overcoil hairspring.
14:59A refinement created by Abraham-Louis Breguet to improve timekeeping in vertical positions.
15:06He inspects it closely for rust and finds it acceptable.
15:13He then reassembles it temporarily, so it will be safe and secure for the cleaning process.
15:19At last, the watch is completely disassembled.
15:24It is ready for cleaning.
15:26He gathers the parts destined for cleaning into a small basket, each type of component sorted into compartments.
15:33This basket will be sealed into a larger basket that fits neatly into the ultrasonic cleaner.
15:39Later, the cleaner's solution and ultrasonic waves will dislodge any remaining rust and grime.
15:51Wilson places the reusable parts into baskets and prepares them for the ultrasonic machine.
15:57This specialised machine, identified as a CS900, is used in major factories worldwide.
16:06The entire process will take about 25 minutes.
16:15While the movement parts undergo ultrasonic cleansing, he turns to the case.
16:20The polishing process begins by soaking the case in a special solution to remove smoke and dirt.
16:30After this bath, he will use different polishing wheels and compounds.
16:34First, a flat wheel to smooth rough scrapes.
16:38Followed by wheels of varying textures and polishing compounds to achieve that signature Rolex finish.
16:45Parts that require a satin finish will receive attention from a special satin wheel.
16:52The watchmaker's mastery of these tools ensures each finish is executed flawlessly.
16:58Now, with the parts cleaned and the case ready, the time has come to rebuild the watch.
17:15He begins by lubricating the shock-absorbing jewels of the balance bridge,
17:38to ensure the hairspring remains flat and the overcoil is positioned correctly.
17:45These cap jewels and hole jewels are engineered to absorb shocks,
17:50protecting the delicate pivots of the balance wheel.
17:53Rolex uses only the highest quality materials for these jewels.
17:59He removes the jewels, lubricates them and then reinstalls them.
18:22Proper lubrication is paramount.
18:26A watchmaker must use the correct oil in the correct spot and in the correct amount.
18:32Too little oil leads to friction and stoppage.
18:36Too much oil leads to spread and contamination.
18:40Each jewel, each gear pivot, receives just the right amount.
18:45Once the balance jewels are set, he checks the hairspring's geometry, flat and round,
18:57and ensures everything is in mint condition before proceeding.
19:01In another basket, Wilson has separated various components.
19:20Automatic devices, bridges, screws, wheels.
19:25So each part is readily available for assembly.
19:41All parts are genuine Rolex replacements.
19:44His workshop maintains an official account with Rolex,
19:48granting access to authentic parts, tools and training.
19:54Rolex regularly inspects its authorized watchmaker's facilities to uphold their high standards.
20:04One recent innovation is that when ordering a new mainspring,
20:08Rolex now provides a complete barrel assembly.
20:12This convenience allows a straightforward installation of the fresh barrel directly into the movement.
20:18He fits the train wheels next.
20:23The sweep second wheel, with its long post, is carefully placed.
20:29The
20:57The barrel is now pristine and strong, ready to deliver power through the wheel train.
21:12Different oils are chosen based on viscosity, with lighter oils reserved for the escapement.
21:20Grease is used where steel meets steel, such as in the winding and setting mechanisms.
21:26If it is lighter, frequently
21:32the type of steel meets the center.
21:35This is the first set of steel, which is definitely the same.
21:41The key repeat is the same.
21:44The steel, the steel, the steel.
21:48The steel.
21:50It's an iron.
21:53With the train wheel bridge installed, he fits the barrel bridge and then the ratchet
22:20wheel which engages directly with the barrel.
22:25When the crown is wound, the ratchet wheel turns the barrel which transmits power through
22:31the wheels and eventually to the escapement.
22:49He installs pins and wheels for the movement side.
22:53These connect to the sliding and winding pinions, enabling the crown to function properly.
23:13Careful oiling here prevents excess friction.
23:17Careful oiling would cause an unsightly mess and potentially affect the movement's performance.
23:26He reinstalls the pallet and the pallet bridge.
23:33And then moves on to the hairspring bridge.
23:43At last, the watch begins to tick once more.
23:47He gives it a slight wind and sees that it runs, even though minimal tension is applied.
23:55This is an encouraging sign.
23:57Then moves on to the wall.
23:58Then moves on to the bridge.
23:59And moves on to the other side.
24:01Then moves on to the other side.
24:04Then moves on to the other side.
24:09This is a fair, even though the power will be added.
24:44He continues lubricating the stones and jewels, then turns the movement over to work on
25:11the setting mechanism.
25:30Wilson wears finger cots, thin protective coverings on the fingers that come into contact with
25:36the watch parts, ensuring no oils or contaminants from his skin transfer to the movement.
25:43One hand remains bare for better grip, but that hand never touches the parts directly.
26:03He reinstalls the sliding pinion, the winding pinion and the bridge that holds them in place,
26:12applying just enough grease to allow smooth operation.
26:19So, let's go.
26:26So, let's go.
28:14With the setting mechanism complete, he turns to the automatic device.
28:19He has reversal wheels and other components to reinstate.
28:23He uses specialized tools again, placing them carefully and lubricating as needed.
28:29The reversal wheels allow the rotor to wind the watch's mainspring, whether it swings clockwise or counterclockwise.
28:37I'm going to see it on the other side of the car to look at how the door goes down.
28:44The first one is running around the way.
28:47This is a portable hook.
28:49It's a portable hook.
28:52There's a portable hook.
28:53He now returns to the dial side.
29:23He has a brand new jumper and a newly restored calendar plate.
29:31The plate, once heavily rusted, now looks as though it were fresh from the factory.
29:39He installs a brand new date disc as well, since the old one could not be salvaged.
29:53He mounts the calendar mechanism, ensuring that as the hour hand advances, the calendar
30:11will jump precisely at midnight.
30:30Once certain the calendar is functioning properly, he tests the movement on a timing machine.
30:36The watch currently runs at plus 25 seconds per day, with an amplitude, the balance wheels swing,
30:43of 278 degrees and zero beat error.
30:47These numbers are not yet perfect.
30:50He wants better accuracy.
30:53The ideal amplitude hovers around 300 degrees or slightly more, ensuring a robust and steady oscillation.
31:01He desires finer regulation of the timing.
31:05He must adjust the watch's timing screws.
31:08Using a Rolex MicroStella key, he stops the balance and carefully turns the tiny weights on the balance wheel.
31:15Each movement of a screw affects the rate, making the watch run faster or slower.
31:21He calculates how many lines or increments to move, striving for that perfect balance that will bring the watch closer to optimal timekeeping.
31:31Once satisfied with the adjustment, he prepares to install the dial.
31:36He selects a brand new dial from Rolex, appropriate for the watch's era.
31:42After placing the dial, he secures it and ensures it is perfectly clean.
31:58Next come the hands.
32:00He chooses fresh Mercedes hands, named for the iconic shape of the hour hand.
32:06He uses brass tweezers to handle them delicately, avoiding scratches.
32:11He aligns the hands so that the calendar changes right at midnight.
32:17In this watch, he must install the 24-hour hand after the hour hand, ensuring both are correctly indexed.
32:29He checks alignment at 6 o'clock and various other references to confirm accuracy.
32:35He then installs the minute hand and tests the 24-hour function,
32:40ensuring it rotates correctly.
32:42Finally, he places the sweep second hand onto the long post of the sweep second wheel.
33:00He double-checks all functions.
33:04Time setting, calendar jumping and hand alignment.
33:08Satisfied, he returns his focus to the case.
33:10Now, he installs a new case tube and applies Loctite, a special adhesive that sets when deprived of air, helping to seal the watch against water ingress.
33:36He lubricates the gaskets and ensures a tight seal.
33:54The case tube is critical for water resistance, as is the new crown he will mount.
34:00He will mount.
34:02He will mount.
34:04He does not look for water and even does not load.
34:08He will mount.
34:10He has aềm.
34:16He has a new name at the top of the chair.
34:18He will mount on the bottom of the chair.
34:20He will mount the entire chair and the chair.
34:22He is the new cover and right there.
34:23And he is the new fan cycle.
34:24He reveals his incompletion and so on.
34:56By assembling the crystal and bezel, he traps the crystal securely in place, ensuring water resistance and restoring the watch's original appearance.
35:13Now, he resumes regulating the watch's timing.
35:17He stops the balance and uses the microstellar key again, making microscopic adjustments to the balance screws.
35:26With his remarkable skill, he achieves the desired reading in one attempt.
35:34He leaves the watch running slightly fast rather than slow, as most owners prefer to gain a few seconds rather than lose them.
35:42Reflecting on the watch's original fire-ravaged condition, he takes pride in how far it has come.
36:02It now runs perfectly, as if the catastrophe had never occurred.
36:09He will apply Loctite to all screws to ensure they remain secure over time.
36:14Wilson is elated.
36:30This restoration required all the skill and patience he has honed over decades.
36:36Few watchmakers could have succeeded, but Wilson is among them.
36:40He installs brand new spring bars to secure the bracelet to the case.
37:08He checks the clasp on the bracelet and finds it tight.
37:18At last, this Rolex Explorer II is ready to wear, ready to display, ready to show the world that it has been resurrected.
37:28It has returned from char and ruin to a state of mechanical perfection.
37:34This Rolex Explorer II, once a lifeless, charred shell, now ticks with vitality.
37:42Time itself has been given a second chance.
37:46Time itself has rejoiced.
37:46Time itself has been sent for a whole time.
37:47Time itself has enhanced.
38:04Time itself has started to change.
38:08FROM treatise...