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00:00Everyone wants to surf the biggest wave,
00:03but maybe it's time to not just focus on Nazare.
00:07That wave, it can be anywhere.
00:17To take a surf into these other places, that's the dream.
00:20We are in Morocco!
00:22Waimea Bay is one of the most iconic big wave spots.
00:26Cortez Bank is 100 miles at sea,
00:30probably the most dangerous surf spot in the world.
00:33I was nervous because a lot of unknown from this wave.
00:37It created this rush that I've been craving.
00:42He's so hungry.
00:47But one bad heavy wipeout,
00:49he might not come back from that.
00:51I've rode big waves for most of my life,
00:54but I've never really thought of the concussions.
00:56Probably had at least 100, if not more.
00:59How many wake-up calls
01:01before you don't get a wake-up call anymore?
01:04Nazare sucks you in.
01:06Get that hype.
01:07This season, I was feeling a lot of pressure.
01:09I wanted to prove myself.
01:11The energy makes you do your best surfing of your career.
01:15But even the best of the best have accidents.
01:17That was the first time I couldn't bring the person back.
01:26It's just so hard.
01:28It's super painful.
01:30It all hit me to focus on what's important.
01:34I get that we want to do things differently.
01:38We ask ourselves what matters to us.
01:42Where are we going to find our happiness?
01:44Maybe go out for a million times right now.
01:46Is this the last chance?
01:47I'm going to touch my arm!
01:49Bye!